Some holidays come with a megaphone. The West Coast National Park works at a lower volume. Most of the best things to do in the West Coast National Park need a paddle, a pair of walking shoes or a bicycle, and none of them come with a commentary.
Whalesong Beach Cottage sits in Churchhaven, on the western shore of the Langebaan Lagoon, which puts the water, the trails and the Atlantic beaches within a short drive. Here is how to fill three days without hearing an engine.
Paddle the Langebaan Lagoon
The lagoon is shallow, sheltered, and clear over its sandbanks, which makes it a natural playground for kayaks and stand-up paddleboards. Paddleboards and kayaks are available to rent, and guided sea-kayak trips run from Langebaan if you prefer company.
Go early. The wind usually builds through the day, and a glassy morning lagoon is a different place from the choppy afternoon version. Paddle along the shore towards Kraalbaai and you share the water with flamingos, cormorants and pelicans.
SANParks divides the lagoon into zones. Zone A takes most water sports, including kayaking and kitesurfing. Zone B is for sailing craft only, and Zone C is a wilderness area closed to the public. Check the zone map at the gate before you launch.
Walk the Trails
The park caters for every pace, from an hour's stroll to a two-day hike.
Bakoor Trail (4.6 km): a short walk from the Langebaan Gate to the Seeberg viewpoint, with some of the best views over the lagoon.
Geelbek circular walks (7 km and 9 km, with longer options): flat walks through Strandveld and past the bird hides.
Strandveld Trail (28 km over two days): from Geelbek across the dunes to Sixteen Mile Beach and back.
Steenbok Trail (13.9 km) and Postberg Trail (two days): both start at Tsaarsbank and open only in August and September, during flower season. Book ahead.
Eve's Trail (about two and a half days): a guided, portered hike run by Cape West Coast Biosphere Trails, with meals included.
For history along the way, read our guide to Eve's footprints, the 117 000-year-old human tracks found on the lagoon shore in 1995.
Walk to the Pantelis A. Lemos
Tsaarsbank, 17 minutes' drive from Churchhaven, faces the open Atlantic. The swell hits the rocks directly here, and the beach has rock pools, braai sites, and a picnic area.
From Tsaarsbank, a walk of about three kilometres along the coast brings you to the wreck of the Pantelis A. Lemos, a bulk carrier that ran aground in 1978, according to South African History Online. The rusting hull makes a striking subject for photographers. Ask at the gate about the current route and check the tides before you set out, as the rocks get slippery.
Cycle the Park Roads
Cycling suits the park's open, rolling terrain, but SANParks keeps riders to set routes. Road cyclists use the tarred park roads: Langebaan Gate to Geelbek and back is 30 kilometres, and Langebaan Gate to Kraalbaai and back is 70 kilometres. Mountain bikers have two marked trails from the Langebaan Gate, the Green Trail (13 km) to the Seeberg bird hide and the Red Trail (17 km), which continues to the Seeberg lookout and Mooimaak.
Bikes may not use any other trail or dirt road, and every rider must wear a helmet. Bring your own bike, and plan your direction around the wind: ride out into it and come home with it behind you.
Watch Birds from a Hide
More than 250 bird species live in or pass through the park. The two hides near Geelbek look over the lagoon's mudflats, where waders feed on the falling tide, and the Seeberg hide offers a higher view. Summer, from September to March, brings the migrant waders from Europe and Asia. Our guide to birdwatching in the West Coast National Park lists what to look for.
Come Home to the Stoep
After a day on the water or the trail, Whalesong Beach Cottage gives you room to spread out. Hang the wetsuits on the stoep, rinse off in the outdoor shower and light the fire-pit while the light fades over the lagoon. The cottage sleeps up to eight guests across four sleeping spaces, which suits a group of active friends or two families sharing.
The December school holidays are the busiest time in the park, so plan early. Check dates and book your active escape direct.
What We Love
Paddling out from Churchhaven before the wind wakes up.
A beach walk at Tsaarsbank with nobody else on it.
An outdoor shower after a day of salt and sand.
Good To Know
Pay the daily conservation fee at the gate, or bring your Wild Card.
Cyclists stay on the tarred roads and the two marked mountain-bike trails.
The Steenbok and Postberg trails open only in August and September.
Pack water and sun protection. The park has very little shade.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you kayak on the Langebaan Lagoon?
Yes. Kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding take place in Zone A of the lagoon, as set by SANParks. Paddleboards and kayaks are available to rent, and guided trips run from Langebaan.
Can you cycle in the West Coast National Park?
Yes, on set routes. Road cyclists use the tarred park roads from the Langebaan Gate, and mountain bikers have the Green (13 km) and Red (17 km) trails. Helmets are compulsory and other dirt roads are closed to bikes.
Where is the Pantelis A. Lemos shipwreck?
The wreck lies on the Atlantic coast of the West Coast National Park, about three kilometres' walk from Tsaarsbank. The ship ran aground in 1978.
What are the best hikes in the West Coast National Park?
Short options include the 4.6 km Bakoor Trail and the Geelbek circular walks. For longer hikes, try the two-day Strandveld Trail, or the Steenbok and Postberg trails in August and September.
Can you swim in the Langebaan Lagoon?
Yes. The sheltered shallows at Kraalbaai and Preekstoel are popular in summer. The water is cool, so many visitors wade and paddle rather than swim.
